Chervil not only has taken parsley's traditional position as the finishing touch on a plate, perched atop foods as if preening its feathery leaves in the dining-room light, but also is replacing garlic in mashed potatoes, basil in pesto and any number of herbs in butter.

Chervil has the anise flavor of tarragon but lighter and the springlike freshness of parsley but more subtle. In this era of supercharged flavors, chervil offers balance.

"It's one of my ...

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